Build Process:

(This is assuming a concrete surface (sidewalk) under your ramp. If you have no sidewalk, you'll need to build footings for beams for your ramp to sit on. If enough people need assistance with that aspect, I'll add a page for it.)

Cut joists to 45". Paint ends w/ end cut treatment.

If board is 11 1/4" wide, cut to 11'-3". If board is 11 3/4" wide, cut length to 11'-9".

Hook tape on tip. Pull layout from tip, 16" o.c. Fudge your first joist to 18". Wedge should be 1 1/2" at that point, allowing 2x4 on flat to be nailed flush w/ top of wedge framing. Predrill holes for nails on the first three joists to prevent stringer blowout.

Lay ripped 2x12s roughly in place, nail joists to ripped 2x12 stringers-

• nails to be 3 1/4" galvanized 12d,
• (2) nails per side on 2x4s, (3) nails per side on 2x6s, (4) nails per side on 2x8s
• Double joists for plywood edges

Nail joists to 2x12 stringers.

Install upper ramp section in place. Install lower section in place. Lock two sections together w/ scrap 2x.

Lock upper section to concrete patio w/ combination of blocking/L-brackets and concrete screws.

Pull stringline at edge from top to bottom of ramp. Make sure two framing sections are straight so plywood, when installed, has no gaps.

Cut 4x6 pt to 48". Cut 8º notches on either side, 1 1/2" wide. Position 4x6 beam under upper section and thump into place. 4x6 should be sitting solid on sidewalk and notched edges should be fully supporting 2x12 stringers. You could also use solid shims on top of an unnotched 4x6 to fully support the 2x12 stringers.

Lock beam to stringers w/ screws/nails. Lock beam to sidewalk w/ L-brackets and concrete screws.

Handrail post at bottom of ramp to be 3' above grade (I make my handrails 36" tall from ramp surface)- dig 2' deep hole (or to frost depth in your neck of the woods) - min. 12" diameter. I usually set the post back from the ramp tip 8" or so. That way, I've got a little meat to run screws through the ramp framing into the post to temp secure it until the concrete sets up.

4 bags of concrete should be plenty (unless, of course, your hole is deeper than 2')

Mix concrete as stiff as possible, but still liquid enough to work out air bubbles.

Let concrete set up while you finish the ramp surface and install the rest of the handrail posts.

The plywood I use is called Simpson SkidGuard. It's available from various lumberyards - it comes from Simpson Lumber in WA state. A good resource for you East Coast guys would be Great Northern Lumber based out of Chicago.

West Coast guys can get it from Lumber Products, they've got locations throughout the Pac NW to CA and east to MT and AZ.

Predrill all four edges 12" o.c., 3/4" in from the edge. Predrill before installation.

In addition, I rout the bottom edge on one panel to make it an easier transition for wheels.

Using a high quality exterior adhesive, generously glue up the framework (joist and stringer tops). Starting at the ramp tip, drop the first panel down on the glue. Screw the edges w/ coated 2" screws. Mark location of every other joist in the field and mark and predrill holes 12" o.c. over those joists. Run 2" screws there too.

Install the rest of the panels in the same manner. Unless your ramp is exactly 24' long, you'll have to cut the top panel to fit.

Pull layout 8' o.c. for your handrail posts from the bottom post. Install handrail posts w/ (4) 5" LedgerLock screws to outside edge of ramp. Measure 35" from top of ramp on upper- and lower-most post. Pop chalk line and cut post tops at 35".

With this ramp, I used a 2x6 and (4) 2x4s for the handrail sections.To get the correct end cuts, I just stacked the 8' boards (2x4s, 2x6) on the ramp, held them tight to the handrail posts and drew lines using the posts as a guide. Cut all ends, predrill for screws - (2) for each 2x4 end, (3) for each 2x6 end.

Positioning the 2x6 level w/ the ramp surface, making a 3 3/4" space between horizontal rails brings the top of the top 2x4 to 35". Make sure your rails line up as you "sight" down the handrail.

Run screws in to posts, install all rails.

2x6 cap rail sits on top of post tops. I used a 16' and an 8' on this ramp - if your ramp is less than 20' long, just use a single 20'.

Run 3" screws up through predrilled holes in post tops to secure cap rail from below. In addition, predrill up through top 2x4 rail every 12" or so and run 3" screws in to secure cap rail along entire run. No screw holes in the top means no holes for water and debris to sit in, causing premature rot.

Round off the ends of your 2x6 cap rail, or clip them at a 45º angle.